Category niger

An overnight in village

This past weekend I spent the night in a village outside of Niamey. It is a potential new village for a volunteer from the current stage, and I was asked to go check it out. Site development is of course done in 4x4s, so no one actually knew how to get there. I was given some marginal information that included “get out at the place with the blue door.”

But all was successful. I took a taxi and then a minibus out to the crossroad, and then walked down a dusty path that looks like more of a temporary motorcycle trail then a road. In truth, it is, because there is only one car that drives that road with any regularity. I had been told that the village was only 6k from the main road, so I figured I’d just walk. It was a nice peaceful walk and did a lot to remind me of things I miss about living in a village. Niamey, like all cities, is a hectic place.

When I arrived I was shown into the volunteer house, where they were in the middle of constructing the latrine. I was given a bed and sheets and even a pillow, and we went out to see the health hut because it is going to be a health post. The hut itself is a tiny little building out on the edge of the village. It looks rather forlorn amidst the millet stalk remains. The health agent explained to me that no one comes to the health hut because there is a clinic by the airport, and even though it is further away, everyone prefers to go there. I didn’t really get an explanation as for why.

They killed a chicken for me and I ate some of the best rice and sauce ever. Really I ate four dinners: copto (a peanut butter mixture with plant leaves), rice, rice and beans with onions, and lastly chicken in sauce over noodles. Dear lord it was delicious.

We stayed there chatting until it was too dark to see anything, and then I did a quick hand-splash bucket bath and went to bed, where I spent the night sweating under my extremely fine mesh bug hut I.

The morning was cool and at six I left to find the car that goes to Niamey once a day, but when we got there the car wasn’t to be found, so I walked back out to the road and caught a minibus back to Niamey.

I had a lot of fun. I also learned that a minibus will take you from the grand marche to the outskirts of Niamey for 100 CFA ($0.20), while a taxi will cost 10 times that. Good to know.

Tabaski 2010

I love Tabaski. When you wake the first day things are curiously quiet. But already thousands, perhaps millions of sheep are being killed in Niamey alone. By 10 or 11 in the morning you can see men on the sides of roads skinning the sheep and getting them ready for the fire. By noon, the fires are going and the meat is sizzling. It looks something like this, and you can see these everywhere:

Sheep slow roasting.

It is hard work, and they are justifiably proud of their accomplishments.

The guys and their meat.

I spent the morning at my friend Ramatou’s house watching Spanish novellas that have been dubbed in French. They are surprisingly absorbing. We also ate some delicious rice and sauce. People really go all out for these two days. Then she got on her moto and roared off to work:

Ramatou is a badass.

Later I headed over to El Haji Moussa’s house, where I ran in a short version of the usual thing:

Pygmy goat

These pygmy goats are all over Benin but pretty rare here. This one was about to pop, and apparently she plays soccer:

Pygmy goat eating.

The first part of the sheep that gets eaten are the innards. The intestines are braided, and then everything is fried in the melted stomach fat from the sheep. If all this sounds gross, it isn’t. Intestines are particularly crunchy and delicious. I never have been a fan of liver though. You dip the fried meat in what they call “tonka,” which is like cayenne mixed with salt and some other stuff. It’s tasty.

Various innards

Moussa’s kids are great, and while I was there one of them took a particular liking to my camera. She was young so she didn’t have to do all the work that everyone else was doing. Here she is learning about “bunny ears.” I try to promote cultural exchange whenever possible.

Fatouma getting bunny ears

Day two I was out again. I went back to Moussa’s house to eat the meat that was now done cooking. I think meat that has been slow roasted and then fried in fat must be the best stuff on the planet. Then we went to the Museum, which was packed with children. Sadly, I was smart enough not to bring my camera. All for the best though, since I stopped my third pick-pocketing attempt.

And that was my Tabaski 2010. Tabaski is a holiday that commemorates the willingness of Abraham to sacrifice his son Isaac to God. And thus does the world go round.

Shoulder Weight

I carry my stress in my shoulders. Sometimes the stress is about work or about health or things I should be doing that I’m not. But mostly the stress is about big decisions that I haven’t made or responsibilities that I need to fill. A lot of times I put off those decisions because, well, to be completely honest I let my concern about how my decisions will affect other people mingle too closely with how I feel and what I want, and the end result is not being able to tell what I want to do.

I am not aware of it at the time, but I end up living under the constant weight the responsibility that I haven’t fulfilled or the decision I haven’t made. It makes me tired and quiet and I need more alone time to recover. But then when I actually manage to take care of whatever it is that has been weighing on me, I feel so much better it is ridiculous. I have more energy, I laugh more easily, I can be social without being tired… I’d like to get better at recognizing when I am letting something wear me down, but it is usually too gradual and subtle and I don’t realize how much energy is draining away. The lesson, yet again, is to take care of things as soon as possible because they don’t get any easier to do later.

So anyway, yesterday I managed to take care of some of those kinds of things, and I also found out that my dad, who was recently in the hospital and had returned again, is doing fine but will be spending some time in assisted living. This takes another load off, and now I am all happy and relaxed. I have been checking off major tasks the last few days, and it feels good.

Now I just need to work on my time management. This whole having internet at work thing isn’t working (I love puns). I’ve started keeping track of my time to help me better focus, and it is already making a big difference. I’ll post some data at some point.

Boston Looks Better and Better

I spent some time this weekend wondering what exactly I would be doing with my time after Peace Corps, assuming that I come back to the states instead of doing another service in Mexico, Peru, or Mongolia, and that I don’t do something else slightly crazy like find work in Seoul or Afghanistan. Assuming that I decide my wandering days are over for a little while once my service is finished. I already have plans that involve buying a motorcycle and visiting old friends across the country. But what happens after that?

One of the nice things about coming back is that you get what’s called a ‘readjustment allowance,’ which works out to something like $6,000 for a normal two-year service. It seems like a lot, but in reality often people need to buy a car and rent an apartment, and that can eat up a rather large chunk right at the outset.

But it also seems like it might be just enough to start a business. If you were super frugal. I have one that I’ve been kicking around for a while now, slowly learning, picking away at it, putting things together. I think I can get it pretty well defined by the end of the year, and then I’ll use my down time to work on it until I am done.

So I guess that’s what I’m going to do. I will apply to law school also, because I think I could find a good school that will give me significant financial aid, and if it all pans out that would be great.

So where is a vibrant city full of smart people and good law schools? Oh yeah, and did I mention basically all of my friends? I didn’t have much love for Boston when I was living in Amherst and going to school, but confluences of events seem to be pushing me in that direction. I also like Seattle, but I don’t know anyone there.

Of course a lot will depend on what happens business-wise and law school-wise. Regardless I’ll be hanging out in New Mexico for a while. I’m fairly sure my actual close of service date will be in the middle of September, so I probably won’t actually make it back till October (I want to go see a friend in Turkey).

On a different note, I’ve been in a kind of malaise for the past couple of weeks, but I think I am coming out of it. I am feeling chipper and ready to get things done!

Adobe

I was looking up pictures of houses this morning and came across some photos of adobe houses in New Mexico, nicely framed by fresh snow. These are the sorts of things that get me really missing home. Mostly I just miss cool weather. I miss bundling up in warm clothes, scarves, and the smell of fall air in the New Mexico mountains.

Green chili is cliche, but of course true.

I miss the comfort of wood fires.

I miss people who share the same cultural stories.

And I miss my friends and my family, and the sense of warmth that, in my memories, pervades our dinners together and our times spent outside in the grass. I miss thanksgiving in Massachusetts and Christmas in New Mexico.

No amount of sand makes up for those things…

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