Category in service

Tabaski 2010

I love Tabaski. When you wake the first day things are curiously quiet. But already thousands, perhaps millions of sheep are being killed in Niamey alone. By 10 or 11 in the morning you can see men on the sides of roads skinning the sheep and getting them ready for the fire. By noon, the fires are going and the meat is sizzling. It looks something like this, and you can see these everywhere:

Sheep slow roasting.

It is hard work, and they are justifiably proud of their accomplishments.

The guys and their meat.

I spent the morning at my friend Ramatou’s house watching Spanish novellas that have been dubbed in French. They are surprisingly absorbing. We also ate some delicious rice and sauce. People really go all out for these two days. Then she got on her moto and roared off to work:

Ramatou is a badass.

Later I headed over to El Haji Moussa’s house, where I ran in a short version of the usual thing:

Pygmy goat

These pygmy goats are all over Benin but pretty rare here. This one was about to pop, and apparently she plays soccer:

Pygmy goat eating.

The first part of the sheep that gets eaten are the innards. The intestines are braided, and then everything is fried in the melted stomach fat from the sheep. If all this sounds gross, it isn’t. Intestines are particularly crunchy and delicious. I never have been a fan of liver though. You dip the fried meat in what they call “tonka,” which is like cayenne mixed with salt and some other stuff. It’s tasty.

Various innards

Moussa’s kids are great, and while I was there one of them took a particular liking to my camera. She was young so she didn’t have to do all the work that everyone else was doing. Here she is learning about “bunny ears.” I try to promote cultural exchange whenever possible.

Fatouma getting bunny ears

Day two I was out again. I went back to Moussa’s house to eat the meat that was now done cooking. I think meat that has been slow roasted and then fried in fat must be the best stuff on the planet. Then we went to the Museum, which was packed with children. Sadly, I was smart enough not to bring my camera. All for the best though, since I stopped my third pick-pocketing attempt.

And that was my Tabaski 2010. Tabaski is a holiday that commemorates the willingness of Abraham to sacrifice his son Isaac to God. And thus does the world go round.

Shoulder Weight

I carry my stress in my shoulders. Sometimes the stress is about work or about health or things I should be doing that I’m not. But mostly the stress is about big decisions that I haven’t made or responsibilities that I need to fill. A lot of times I put off those decisions because, well, to be completely honest I let my concern about how my decisions will affect other people mingle too closely with how I feel and what I want, and the end result is not being able to tell what I want to do.

I am not aware of it at the time, but I end up living under the constant weight the responsibility that I haven’t fulfilled or the decision I haven’t made. It makes me tired and quiet and I need more alone time to recover. But then when I actually manage to take care of whatever it is that has been weighing on me, I feel so much better it is ridiculous. I have more energy, I laugh more easily, I can be social without being tired… I’d like to get better at recognizing when I am letting something wear me down, but it is usually too gradual and subtle and I don’t realize how much energy is draining away. The lesson, yet again, is to take care of things as soon as possible because they don’t get any easier to do later.

So anyway, yesterday I managed to take care of some of those kinds of things, and I also found out that my dad, who was recently in the hospital and had returned again, is doing fine but will be spending some time in assisted living. This takes another load off, and now I am all happy and relaxed. I have been checking off major tasks the last few days, and it feels good.

Now I just need to work on my time management. This whole having internet at work thing isn’t working (I love puns). I’ve started keeping track of my time to help me better focus, and it is already making a big difference. I’ll post some data at some point.

Boston Looks Better and Better

I spent some time this weekend wondering what exactly I would be doing with my time after Peace Corps, assuming that I come back to the states instead of doing another service in Mexico, Peru, or Mongolia, and that I don’t do something else slightly crazy like find work in Seoul or Afghanistan. Assuming that I decide my wandering days are over for a little while once my service is finished. I already have plans that involve buying a motorcycle and visiting old friends across the country. But what happens after that?

One of the nice things about coming back is that you get what’s called a ‘readjustment allowance,’ which works out to something like $6,000 for a normal two-year service. It seems like a lot, but in reality often people need to buy a car and rent an apartment, and that can eat up a rather large chunk right at the outset.

But it also seems like it might be just enough to start a business. If you were super frugal. I have one that I’ve been kicking around for a while now, slowly learning, picking away at it, putting things together. I think I can get it pretty well defined by the end of the year, and then I’ll use my down time to work on it until I am done.

So I guess that’s what I’m going to do. I will apply to law school also, because I think I could find a good school that will give me significant financial aid, and if it all pans out that would be great.

So where is a vibrant city full of smart people and good law schools? Oh yeah, and did I mention basically all of my friends? I didn’t have much love for Boston when I was living in Amherst and going to school, but confluences of events seem to be pushing me in that direction. I also like Seattle, but I don’t know anyone there.

Of course a lot will depend on what happens business-wise and law school-wise. Regardless I’ll be hanging out in New Mexico for a while. I’m fairly sure my actual close of service date will be in the middle of September, so I probably won’t actually make it back till October (I want to go see a friend in Turkey).

On a different note, I’ve been in a kind of malaise for the past couple of weeks, but I think I am coming out of it. I am feeling chipper and ready to get things done!

Adobe

I was looking up pictures of houses this morning and came across some photos of adobe houses in New Mexico, nicely framed by fresh snow. These are the sorts of things that get me really missing home. Mostly I just miss cool weather. I miss bundling up in warm clothes, scarves, and the smell of fall air in the New Mexico mountains.

Green chili is cliche, but of course true.

I miss the comfort of wood fires.

I miss people who share the same cultural stories.

And I miss my friends and my family, and the sense of warmth that, in my memories, pervades our dinners together and our times spent outside in the grass. I miss thanksgiving in Massachusetts and Christmas in New Mexico.

No amount of sand makes up for those things…

Being Good

So much of life revolves around being good – around what it means to be good and all the ways you’ve been bad. Over time I’ve gotten closer and closer to behaving in a way that sits well with my own convoluted moral code. Roughly a year ago, approaching the tender age of 30, I finally began to feel that I had conquered the major demons. I felt really good about myself for a while.

I have been learning a couple of things as a result:

First, I worry just as much about other unwanted behaviors. So much of life is about behavior patterns. I’ve spent all my life focusing on the bad things that I do. So while I used to condemn myself for what I felt was not respecting people or acting with integrity (and I still think about that, I just haven’t done anything recently to make me feel that way), now I condemn myself for not being more social or more productive. There are always things to condemn oneself for.

This is a sad thing. I see my fellow volunteers struggling so hard with their ideas of aid, of being productive, of respecting the culture we live in – most of it boils down to questions about whether or not one is a good person. Peace Corps volunteers are, as a whole, incredibly hard on themselves.

So I’ve been trying to let go of that somewhat: the drive to condemn. I’m trying to be okay with feeling like I don’t want to hang out with anyone this week, or with not getting any work done for five days straight. Not that these things are actually okay, but beating yourself up about them does little to help.

The second thing is that even when you treat people with respect and you act with integrity, sometimes you still hurt them. Sometimes being respectful means you have to hurt them. I agonize over this kind of thing, which makes being honest and straightforward difficult. I remember when I first read something stating that not being direct and honest was cowardly, not kind. It took me some years to be able to put that into practice, and I will probably always struggle with it because, well, telling people what they don’t want to hear sucks.

If you can’t tell, life has been throwing me for some loops. Or maybe I have been throwing myself some loops. Anyway, I think I’m coming out of it. My house is slowly getting organized. I hope that when done with that I can get back to work in a productive way. Everything starts at home – my roving, never-settled home.

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