I love Tabaski. When you wake the first day things are curiously quiet. But already thousands, perhaps millions of sheep are being killed in Niamey alone. By 10 or 11 in the morning you can see men on the sides of roads skinning the sheep and getting them ready for the fire. By noon, the fires are going and the meat is sizzling. It looks something like this, and you can see these everywhere:
It is hard work, and they are justifiably proud of their accomplishments.
I spent the morning at my friend Ramatou’s house watching Spanish novellas that have been dubbed in French. They are surprisingly absorbing. We also ate some delicious rice and sauce. People really go all out for these two days. Then she got on her moto and roared off to work:
Later I headed over to El Haji Moussa’s house, where I ran in a short version of the usual thing:
These pygmy goats are all over Benin but pretty rare here. This one was about to pop, and apparently she plays soccer:
The first part of the sheep that gets eaten are the innards. The intestines are braided, and then everything is fried in the melted stomach fat from the sheep. If all this sounds gross, it isn’t. Intestines are particularly crunchy and delicious. I never have been a fan of liver though. You dip the fried meat in what they call “tonka,” which is like cayenne mixed with salt and some other stuff. It’s tasty.
Moussa’s kids are great, and while I was there one of them took a particular liking to my camera. She was young so she didn’t have to do all the work that everyone else was doing. Here she is learning about “bunny ears.” I try to promote cultural exchange whenever possible.
Day two I was out again. I went back to Moussa’s house to eat the meat that was now done cooking. I think meat that has been slow roasted and then fried in fat must be the best stuff on the planet. Then we went to the Museum, which was packed with children. Sadly, I was smart enough not to bring my camera. All for the best though, since I stopped my third pick-pocketing attempt.
And that was my Tabaski 2010. Tabaski is a holiday that commemorates the willingness of Abraham to sacrifice his son Isaac to God. And thus does the world go round.
   

