Category events

This Mad Week

This was a mad week. It was mad in many senses: as a prelude to things to come, as a launch point of new directions, as a return to friends missed, as a challenge of head and heart. Much had to do with with the Gender and Development (GAD) auction and the swearing in of new volunteers, coupled with a day long workshop to which I was central. And since it isn’t often that I get to see many volunteers, the nights were full of social events. To top it all off, I have been having trouble sleeping the last couple of weeks, at first because I found this amazing computer game, then because of nervousness about this week, and then because the week was so full that my days weren’t finishing until late. I finally crashed last night and slept like the dead, only to wake and stay up until midnight.

So anyway, Tuesday was the GAD auction, which lines up roughly with when new groups of volunteers swear in. Since I am a GAD representative for my region, I was responsible for a few things, mostly just showing up on Tuesday to help organize all the stuff for the silent auction. We get stuff by going around to local businesses and asking for donations and by collecting things from volunteers throughout the year. I work till 5:30, so I wasn’t involved in much of this (also I hate asking for donations), but I was able to get the afternoon off on Tuesday to help set up. The auction itself was great, and we raised over $3,000 dollars for GAD. I didn’t bid on anything, but there was some really cool stuff there.

Then we had a nice dinner and a talent show / live auction / raffle, which I (badly) helped MC. I did a swing dance with a girl I met from Boston University and a funny dance to a song from Glee. Also I won a small computer bag sewn like the Niger flag in the raffle.

After that it was time for the after-auction party, which includes yet another auction. I had donated four pies to that, but they didn’t get auctioned off because the new volunteers had to leave and we ran out of time.

I woke up the next day and had a workshop at PLAN to get some local input on our objectives and themes for this life skills project. Whenever we get a final draft I will put it in a post here. It was a great workshop, and we got a lot of good ideas. But having slept only a few hours that night, I was beat.

Later that night I went out with a friend of mine and met a guy who works here who is from The Netherlands. He turned out to be really cool and does interesting statistical things with a national farmer cooperative. At least he would like to if he can get them collecting a good set of data. He is new to Niger and I plan on inviting him out the next time I am doing something interesting (such as going to the horse races on Saturday?).

Along those lines, I have become a huge fan of Hand Relief International, which makes great fun of the development world (and has some pointed things to say about Peace Corps). I am not quite as cynical as they are, but they make me laugh.

Yesterday was more of the same, and this morning I went out with Moustapha, who manages this whole Youth Economic Empowerment project, to see some groups having their first meetings. Unfortunately we got lost and ended up coming back having done nothing. Here’s to hoping next week will work out better.

So that is the week in review. Today is pretty relaxed, and then tomorrow I will be helping the new volunteers in my region go shopping for supplies, and we will go to the horse races and have a goodbye dinner and dancing for the brave souls going to do a third year in Diffa.

Life is really pretty awesome. My job is turning into a great experience both professionally and personally, and I am really enjoying the group of people that I socialize with in Niamey. It is a little too much at the moment, but that should calm down soon (Incha’Allah). I find myself doing a lot more interacting with Americans, which is good, but I didn’t want it to come at the expense of knowing and spending time with Nigerians. It is some, but I’m making Nigerian friends here to and am pretty excited about that.

Laughter

Writing this blog is strange because I have ideas for posts and then often forget whether I have actually written them, so I never know if I’m revisiting a topic or not. I imagine that would take some of the interest out of reading it.

I would like to relate a joke I heard yesterday:

An American went to Senegal and was being shown around Dakar by a Senegalese man. They went to the pier and saw the boats, and the American said, “We have bigger boats in America.” Later they were on the street looking at the cars, and the American said “In America we have cars that are much bigger than that.” Everywhere they went they saw things that the American said were bigger and better in America. At last they were at the market and they saw sugar, which is concentrated into a block the shape of a liter water bottle. The American, not having seen it before, asked what it was. Being rather tired of the American saying everything was bigger in America, the Senegalese said, “Oh that, that’s a suppository.” The American backed away holding up his hands. “No,” he said. “For you that is much bigger!”

(cue insane laughter)

One of the best parts of my life here is laughter. A few nights ago I made dinner with some volunteers and spent three hours talking about inane subjects like super heroes and villains, and laughing ourselves to death. My super power was “jazz hands” and my name was Excito Boi (There was some argument from me that my name should be at least Excito Man, but I was overruled). My weakness was bulimia because I would get so excited.

Looking back, it is hard to see why we thought all of this was so funny. The joke I put above may not seem funny to most of you. It involves much subtlety in the behavior of Americans in Africa and in the views of West Africans toward Americans. Something about life here is slow enough that it allows much space for laughter, for chatting all night with nothing else to do. The pace of life can be frustrating, but it also gives a lot of time for those precious moments. They are the best moments.

In America I remember spending a lot of time working on projects, and occasionally watching movies or surfing the internet, and if I got bored with those I would read. Even if I had nothing to do, no one else also had nothing to do at the same time such that we could spend it together sitting and talking. If by chance someone did, we would usually try to find something to do.

This strikes me as terribly strange, and is one of the things I will miss most when I leave here. It is one of the things that gets me contemplating living somewhere else. Because for all the benefits of living in the US, of having family and friends and speaking a language easily, of understanding and being at ease with the culture, we just don’t laugh as much.

If you find the joke funny, or not, leave me a comment saying why. I am interested.

Ode to Age (Well, and an Actual Person)

This particular post is being written as an ode to one of my favorite volunteers from the new stage who was recently sent (decided to go? The details are fuzzy) home. I hear he was sent home because of difficulties with the staff. I don’t really know what that means, but I do know that I struggle enough with the overly protective parent aspect of Peace Corps. I suspect as an older adult, having already lived much of your life responsible for yourself and your actions, that to join Peace Corps and have to live by its rules would be even more difficult.

There was an older volunteer in Guinea that had a hard time as well. She didn’t have a hard time with her village (from what I know), but she did not get along with the bureau and generally just ignored the rules that the bureau laid down. She was in her 60s. I can’t really blame her.

Of course I don’t know the specifics of the situation, and the bureau rarely makes rash decisions, but I am sad to see him go. He had a lot of experience living abroad and I rather liked him. Also, he was one of a small minority of male volunteers. He would have been good company.

So Alan, if you ever read this, I hope that you went home under conditions that felt right to you, and that whatever you go on to is even better for you.

A Hug and a Handshake

The longer you are in a different culture, the more of that culture you adopt. Over time I have become increasingly used to shaking hands when I see someone. These days I get offended if someone doesn’t offer to shake my hand upon arriving. By someone I mean a man, because women don’t generally offer their hands to anyone. This makes for some funny incidents around new volunteers, who haven’t yet absorbed the handshaking protocol.

A couple of days ago I taught a session on business clubs to the trainees, and the men showed up and said a casual “Hey” before sitting down on the mats. I was thinking to myself “What the heck? You can’t be bothered to greet me properly?” Of course in America that is a proper greeting, so there you go.

More interesting was when my great friend came to visit. I met him at the airport after waiting through rain and sandstorm. It was a very public place, and since it was three or so in the morning tempers were short. Eric came out of the gate looking rather sleepy, and we did a classic ‘I try to shake his hand while he tries to hug me’ dance. In the states of course, we would have given each other a big hug, but here in Niger? Different cultures call for different actions. Here a handshake is standard and holding hands is a gesture of friendship. You don’t see hugs often. In the middle of our hug, our joyful reunion after almost two years apart, I was thinking “This is really awkward, I bet people think we are weird.” I keep forgetting to ask, but I wonder what he thought about it. If I saw a friend after a long time apart I’d be sort of put off by his trying to give me a handshake instead of a hug.

So there you go. Some cultural things, like greeting many people, I want to take back with me. Others I hope I can leave here. In the mixing of behaviors that happens inside of us who knows what will be eventually left behind and what will stay with us forever?

Call Me Mario

Life is really good at giving you just enough to go on that you begin to think you are awesome and then coming up behind you and knocking you flat. In my head I call it the god complex. If you start to think you are god, you are getting ready to get muddy.

I spent the weekend doing exactly that. Literally. By Friday I had found out that I will be living in my current house for the rest of my service, which means having a roommate for the next couple of months before he goes home. I got a bed from the bureau that is awesome, and I was all set to clean up some and get really, finally, moved in. I was feeling pretty good.

Then I broke the water main that goes into the house…

It had nearly rusted through and after messing with it for a little while I figured out that I could replace the parts pretty easily. I biked over to a plumbing shop, where i purchased a new piece. Equipped with a lock-wrench, I spent the next 30 minutes fixing things before discovering that another piece was also rusted. No problem, I’ll just nip on over to the plumbing store again…

At this point I’m feeling pretty awesome, because I’ve fixed my own plumbing, and that with a massive shortage of tools. And so now you know what comes next.

I spent the next four hours attaching everything, seeing that things leaked, and taking them apart to reattach. They use some kind of grass instead of plumbing tape here, so that was part of the problem. I was muddy. It wasn’t working. Maybe the pipe was too short. Oh yeah, and it started pouring rain.

I announced to the world that I was already muddy enough and hardly needed more help in that respect.

At present we have very leaky water and are hoping for a plumber to come by and fix what I couldn’t.

Sometimes you just have to laugh…

Also, Mario is the plumber from Nintendo’s Super Mario Bros, for the uninitiated.

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