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Mary has been here for almost a week now, and as you can imagine I am spending less time writing blog posts while she is here, so those of you who want more posts will have to be a little patient. Her trip here was grueling, and unfortunately because I was not allowed in to the baggage recieving room she ended up paying a significant amount of money in bribes, which has me rather incensed. But other than that all went well, and after recuperating for a day in Conakry we made the long taxi ride back to Faranah, which took about nine hours and got us in a little after midnight.

We’ve also had the chance to attend a formation about living with HIV/AIDS that is geared toward a group of peer educators, and which overall had both of us impressed with the level and accuracy of the information being given. It is a Faisson Ensemble project, so it is nice to see something that they are doing that seemed good. Of course they pay these peer educators, and while we were there they got a lecture about not actually doing the work they were supposed to be doing, but it is a big step up from the good governance formation I went to earlier on in my service.

We also bought a fan, which has been a godsend in the heat, and has I think single-handedly encouraged my cat to actually spend time inside again. The market in general has been a (more) fun experience, and Mary is I think enjoying learning the numbers in French and Malinke and even has been teaching some of the little kids English numbers.

Friday we went to a village about 10 kilometers away, and walked the way there, which was a nice chance for Mary to get to see some of the countryside, but also extremely hot, which resulted in her being pretty dehydrated and my heat rash extending all over my back and down my thighs and my arms. It was the worst its ever been, but seems to have faded away again now. I have been trying to scrub it thoroughly every day, but it is hard to prevent flare ups. While there I met with a groupement to talk about the different kinds of formations I could do and what they would find useful, which invariably ended up as a list of mostly material requests, but also hopefully will result in some good formations to work on business skills.

Pictures of Rain and Other Things

Here are some photos of the sky before it rained.  And the inside of my house.  And a giant mutant mango.  That is my little laptop sitting under it.  I am in Conakry now to pick Mary up from the airport.  The trip was very smooth and fast.  I road the whole way with a really nice guy from the military.

I also found a couple of letters in my mailbox and there are several volunteers here, so I am trying to decide whether to go see The Vagina Monologues in French with them or to stay at the house and do nothing…

Here is a giant Mango.  That’s my laptop underneath it.

big mango 

Inside of my house looking directly on from the doorway:

inside 1 

Inside to the left (thanks for the map mom):

inside 2 

Inside to the right:

inside 3 

Il faut protect your foundation from flooding.  This is looking out of my window:

rain flood 

A little closer:

rain water  

The sky before it rains.  The sun is down:

sky before rain 

Hand held long exposure of same.  Maybe out of focus also:

abstract sky

My stamp I had made for $4.  He spelled my last name wrong though, so I think I am going to have to ask for another one.  If you look closely you can still see where I should have an O and instead have a C that looks suspiciously like it used to be an E:

stamp 

And that’s all for now.  All this air conditioning is getting to me.  And I’ve been up since 5:30 and travelling in the car all day.  I need a nap.

Popcorn is God

The title is not a typo.  I have been wondering about popcorn for a while now, especially since my mom sent me some nutritional yeast.  Occassionally you see guys on the street selling popcorn from little popcorn machines that must be left over from the 50′s, so I know it exists.  On impulse I bought a little bag of corn kernels, thinking, since it was a food stand, that it could only be popcorn because how else can you eat dried corn kernels (okay okay, I know you could grind it into powder to make any number of things, but you can also just buy meal).  After I bought them they told me, by means of pantomime since they didn’t speak French, that it was for planting.  Hmmm.  But I took it home and tried it anyway, throwing the kernels with wild abandon into way too much hot peanut oil and then cackling with glee when I heard the sweet sound of popcorn popping.

My excitement was tempered only slightly when, upon opening the lid after a few minutes, I found that less than a quarter of the kernels had popped and the rest had just turned a sort of dark brown and black color.  My dreams of white salty yeasty popcorn were dashed, but, my stomach growling with anticipation, I dumped the contents of the pan into one of my new plastic bowls, which as you might expect is not the least bit heat resistant, and promptly started to melt.

In the end I managed to get the popcorn kernels, and a few grains of actual popped corn, into a glass bowl, where I proceeded to indiscriminately pour yeast over the remains of my experiment and ate everything with abandon.  It was the best popcorn ever, though I did tire of the charcoal taste near the end.

So with that unnecessarily long story by way of introduction, maybe I can move into my real post, of which the contents are that it rains crazily here, that some animal already broke through my fence and knocked down my new moringa tree, and that only a few days remain until Mary arrives, which is rather fiercely interfering with my ability to concentrate on anything else.  I also bought some kind of lemony-minty herb that people told me I am supposed to make tea with, and add sugar, and it is good for the stomach.  It is quite delicious and a nice change from the liptonesque tea I’ve been having every day.

I’ve been thinking a lot lately about the fact that I’ve now been in Guinea for over six months, and that I have only a year and a half left, which seems like a long time in the sense that it is a year and a half, but considering how fast the first six months flew by in retrospect, it is frighteningly short.

And what the heck am I going to do afterward?

But more immediately concerning is how am I going to get anything of significance accomplished?  Granted I’m only supposed to have been working for one of those six months, and in that one month I have had so many meetings its crazy, but I have yet to do any actual transfering of knowledge (unless you count the very simple budgeting request that I gave to a business I am trying to work with).  I am hoping that shortly all these meetings will turn into actual real events, but so far that is not the case.  To be fair though, my calendar is so filled with planned trainings and sessions that I am scared I will be overwhelmed.

If I end of doing a funded project, it seems clear that it might be some sort of computer lab, since numerous people have talked to me about it.  But there are a million problems with the idea, not the least that it would almost certainly be turned into someone’s rather lucrative business after I leave.  I’d want it to be run by a group of youth, who were responsible for holding classes on how to use it, for charging small fees to cover operating costs and internet, and for making sure that some patron didn’t move in and take it over.  But these are difficult demands to make, and as of right now there exists no such group of youth.

Oh yeah, I got some new clothes today to.  It was a little surreal, as I sat waiting for the tailor to finish sewing the buttons on my shirt (I will have to post pictures), behind me a man hacked a a leg of a cow with an axe, and bits of bone and gristle were flying everywhere.  I drank some ataya tea and spoke a bit of malinke, much to everyone’s delight, and, most surreally, we were listening to Britney Spear’s “Oops I did it Again” on someone’s cell phone.  Now, I like pop music as much as the next Peace Corps volunteer, but this was six or eight men, all my age or older, listening to Britney as if it was the coolest song in the world.  The guy with the phone asked me if it was a sweet song, and was very happy when I replied in the affirmative.

I can feel my posts shifting topics into a list of things that happened rather than of what I am feeling and thinking.  I can’t help but think that this is less interesting, but my mind does not seem inclined to write a lot about the pondering, and anyway the amount of pondering has greatly decreased since my return from IST and subsequent greatly improved feeling toward being here.  Maybe now that is all I have to offer.

Wired

There’s nothing like a little physical labor to put you back at peace.  Yesterday I dug a bunch of holes and put all the posts in for the fence of my garden.  Its only a small garden, but I am planning on building a little shade structure and setting up a hammock under it, and hopefully I will have a place to pass afternoons that is not as hot as my house is.  The rest of the garden will be filled with herbs and bell peppers and peas and other goodies.  I need to go buy cord to tie the wood of the fence together, but I am avoiding the marche.

Also I got my house wired yesterday.  As I expected, I ended up paying for some of the line, which pisses me off because my family broke the line in the first place, but it was only 15.000 FG and sometimes it is easier to just pay, which of course they knew.  So far I’ve had electricity constantly since we got hooked up, which is crazy.  I wonder if I am going to have current 24/7 through the rainy season.  It certainly makes it easier to write posts without worrying about running out of battery.

I was also wired because I finally got one of the kids to teach me how to make Attaya, which is a sort of consentrated tea with a lot of sugar that many people drink here.  You make two pots with each box of tea, and each pot fills almost four glasses (like shot glasses).  We made two boxes, so I drank four glasses of tea and spent the rest of the night overcaffinated.  But it was fun to learn and the tea is pretty good, and kind of important in terms of tradition and respect, so it is good to know.  I have all the equipment, so I can make it on my own now (by equipment I mean teapot, four shot glasses, two cups, and a charcoal burner with charcoal).

Then with the current I got to spend the night going through my music and listening to new stuff, which I haven’t had a chance to do ever yet.

The vision of the garden is doing a lot for my peace of mind because I think it will be a sanctuary that isn’t inside my house, which I can’t really hide in, and which isn’t much of a sanctuary anyway because people can (and do) sit on my steps and be loud as hell.  There isn’t really a concept of not disturbing people here, so I can’t even do much about it without seeming like an overly angry American, which I already come across as sometimes.  A big part of it is the concept of joking here, which is centered around getting into fake arguments.  To me its not remotely funny, and I get tired of hearing people yell at each other.

Anyway, my garden is behind my house, and so it is sheltered some from the noise, and the shade hut will be less hot than my house and will make me still approachable without having to be out with everyone else.  That might seem reclusive, but its important to be able to get away from things, and doing so in my house too often feels like cooping myself up.  Also, Guineans spend as little time as possible inside their houses, so I think it comes across as a little rude if I stay inside, but everyone hangs out in the shade all the time, so that is just fine.  Ah cultural adjustment.  So fun.

And the current just left, so I guess it won’t be 24 hours a day.  But it is still a lot, which is fantastic.  I cleaned my house and did a little rearranging to try and get more organized before Mary arrives.

June 15th Update: My garden is now ready to be planted, hopefully tonight.  Its pretty exciting, though I need to figure out what I want to plant where.  I left a spot to build a little rain and shade cover and be able to hang a hammock under, which will be awesome sometime next year when I finish it right before my service ends.

Getting a Break

Sometimes life gives you a break.  Like when you are fed up with meetings and people being mean and the heat, and then you get a day like today, which is cloudy and cool (ish), and where I have no obligations whatsoever.  Its a well needed respite.

The last few days have been rough, I seem to hit a point after about two weeks at site where I get frustrated and my mood takes a turn for the worse.  Some point in August or September I am going to try and stay at site for at least four weeks, which doesn’t sound like much, but with all the traveling we do, is actually rather difficult.  In August there is girl’s conference, and then in September (I think) is life skills training (AIDS), neither of which are the monthly trip I should get to my regional capital.  In fact I have only been to my regional capital twice four months I have been at site.

I’d really like to do a six week stint at site, because if I can last six weeks, I will probably never have to last six weeks again, and so my times when I am down won’t seem so bad.  I know that makes it seem like all I am doing is enduring until my next trip away from site, but it isn’t really like that, its just that three weeks, which is the max I’ve stayed at site up till now, doesn’t seem like that long.  I wish in fact that I had less trips to take and could stay at site longer.  All the travel makes it exponentially more difficult to do anything.

But that should change after training for the new stage, which is December through February.  After that there isn’t (I don’t think) any more required training, and the only thing I can think of that I will have (well, want, since it isn’t required) to go to is girl’s conference in the summer.  But by then my service will be more than half way over.

My cat is still with me.  She seems to have decided that she actually likes me and now sits on my lap any time I am sitting down.  I paid an exorbitant amount ($14) to have her vaccinated, so there is no way I am giving her up, especially since the reason she poops in my family’s house is because they take her in there at night.

I just finished a ridiculous girly novel about a fashion designer who leaves New York for Paris and searches for the man of her dreams, called Paris Hangover.  Lets just say it is definitely not written for men, though it does have a lot of sex in it and the descriptions of Paris make me want to give Paris a second chance (I wasn’t that big of a fan when I went there with my high school French class).  In fact I probably am losing manliness points just for admitting that I read it, and even more for saying that it wasn’t as bad as I expected it to be.  But then manliness means something different here.  You can do a little hip dance in nothing but a towel while asking other guys to watch you and not be any less masculine.  You can wear pink, play with children, and hold hands with another guy and it means nothing.  But if you wash dishes or prepare your own food people will laugh at you.  “That’s women’s work!” They’ll say.

Also I was told that if a white person stays in the sun long enough he becomes black, and that I shine like a star during the night (my mefloquine induced whiteness must be reaching new levels).

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