Dancing

Yesterday was pretty cool. I wasn’t terribly stable, but I pushed through all of my desires to hide, and I always feel better when I can do that. I also got up early enough that I could exercise a little bit and study some French and still be able to go to the bureau in the morning, which was great, cause then the rest of the day was flexible. At the office I talked to the secretary treasurer of my organization, and next Friday we are going to meet and talk about the books and how he does the accounting. I’m kind of excited cause I feel like it will be my first bit of real, easily definable work, and I might be able to give some accounting help. I’m trying to go about it as courteously as possible, because he not only obviously knows what he is doing, but I don’t want to come off thinking that he is doing something wrong and if he shows me the books I will change it all. I actually don’t know that I’ll be able to help with the accounting at all, but at least I’ll get a chance to talk to him about where he thinks the problems are and how he thinks I can help, which will give me an idea of what to look for in the future.

I ate some pretty fantastic beef meatballs for lunch (seriously, only meatballs, nothing else but oil and a little onion). It was delicious, even as filled with little pieces of bone as it was. Perhaps despite my efforts to eat protein I am not getting enough, because I felt pretty good for the rest of the day.

I came back and took a short nap, but it was super hot in my house so I went out and sat under the mango tree and chatted with my family as they prepared gingam, a ginger and sugar drink that is quite tasty. I also went to the marche and bought a baseball hat, because my Hampshire College one was so worn out it had holes in it and both my family here and in Forecariah seem very against wearing clothes with holes in them. Worn out is definitely not in fashion here. Anyway, I cut the Hampshire logo off my old hat and I’m going to sew it on my new Real Madrid hat (I’m betting the makers of the hat in China did not get permission to use their name). I bought it for $2.80, talked down from $3.60. When I put it in dollar terms it seems like such a tiny amount, but for me the difference is worth two rice and soup sauce dinners, not to mention trying to salvage at least in some part the idea that I am only a white person, not a super rich white person.

But the highlight of the day was that I asked if I could watch some dancing, and ended up being invited to a pre-wedding celebration that was awesome. If I understand correctly (a big supposition), the women here do a dance for the three days before the wedding as the “souvenir” for the bride. Its a sort of gift they give the bride before her wedding. So I was led through town walking and semi-dancing next to the grandmother of my family, who is I think a pretty well respected person in the community. When we got to the dance we walked into a big circle of people and around the interior, salueing everyone, and then they brought in special chairs and seated us in the front row. I was feeling way out of place because I was one of only maybe ten men there, and six of those men were drummers (not to mention the other obvious differences). The women danced in pairs or threesomes, decided haphazardly by whoever wanted to go up and dance. Their dancing was amazing! It was a kind of very fast hopping with arms and elbows flapping like wings. It kind of reminded me of chickens or something, but what was really cool was how much energy and heart went into their dancing. Fanta, the fiance of my homologue here, was a big help throughout. She gave me a big thumbs up when she saw me with what was probably a look of “what the heck am I doing here?” And we danced together to the drums. The dance is rather much harder than it looks, I might have to practice some in the comfort of the dirt outside my house.

All in all it was a good day, and a day much needed, since this week has been mostly a struggle in obstinant stubborness to get through the day. I had kind of plateaud out and felt like I was on another down swing, just waiting for the mailrun and the trip to Kankan, which I’m actually not that excited about, but I feel like its a good idea to go and see the other volunteers and get a little break from my site. But yesterday picked my spirits up some, and I actually got almost seven hours of sleep last night, which is much better than I’ve been getting.
Speaking of sleep, the last several days I haven’t been able to do much of it, though I don’t really know why. My dreams have also been increasingly surreal and weird, though they haven’t returned to the nightmares that I was having for a while in Forecariah. I don’t know if its more mefloquine effects or if its just a result of all the changes going on, but hopefully the good sleep that I got last night is the beginning of a trend.

Finally, it is the dry season and we get our current from a hydroelectric dam, so I think we’re on a reduced schedule for the next couple of months, which may reduce my posting frequency. Not to mention that the internet has been down this whole week because the generator is broken, and I don’t know when it will be fixed. I guess you will know its fixed when you read this, but just keep in mind that my timing is probably going to be pretty variable here.
Also, I just wanted to thanks for everyone’s support and words of encouragement. I’ve past the one month mark, and things are defintely much better than they were that first week or two.

Ants Eat Anything

It seems that whenever I’m feeling pretty down I run into some things that pick me back up. Today started of with me hiding in my house and then losing patience with people speaking to me in Malinke when they know I can’t understand. But it got better later when I got invited to tea by this guy. He is Muslim and the guy who lives across from him is Catholic, so they were each trying to convince me that I should be one religion or the other, though really the Muslim guy just was excited that I would go with him to the mosque. They weren’t antognistic, after all they were drinking tea together, but seeing as how that has been one of the great conflicts of the human race, I tried to proceed diplomatically, which in a sense was easy because I’m not really either, but I also didn’t want to offend and I’m not yet used to the live and let live approach here. I expected someone to get offended by something, but I don’t think Guineans really get offended much. It makes me think of sociology studies that talk about the relationship between population density and manners.

Anyway, long story short I made a couple new friends and got invited to both the mosque and the church. I was also reminded of how important it is to have different people to hang out with. Having just one or two friends is better than none, but if they are all you know you are bound to get sick of them at some point.

And then I toured the university with an intern at APIC, it was pretty cool. There is internet there when school is in session, and it was a really pretty campus, with a lot of work going on right now since they are on vacation until April. If I do any computer related stuff I may try and do it there.

So by the end of the day my mood was pretty good, and now, having eaten some weird tasting but very cold and thus delicious ice cream, I am getting ready to head to bed. I continue to be rather bipolar in my moods, but it is evening out and I look forward to developing a good life here.

Anyway, I have had a few interesting thoughts I want to write about but keep forgetting. One is that my age group is nearly the highest for people who early terminate. I always thought that was a litle strange, since I figured being in your late 20s you’d have things a little more figured out than when you are straight out of college, but now I’m thinking that a lot of the ETs in my age group are because we are at the point where we want to make our careers and families happen, and perhaps people get impatient to start one of the two. That just reflects my own impatience, but its the first explanation I’ve come up with.

The other is that I made a comprehensive list of things ants won’t eat:
1. Stuff in sealed metal cans.
2. Oranges not yet peeled.

Everything else is up for grabs. I’m getting pretty good though at keeping my tables spotless and sweeping up any crumbs, so the swarms are down to a minimum.

Learning Malinke

The Current Is Back. A day late and a little spotty, but I’m not complaining. Today was one of those days where I was kind of down but I didn’t really know why. It started with my not being able to sleep and then not being able to make myself get up when I wanted to, but the day itself wasn’t bad. I went to another formation on governance by Faisson Ensemble. This one was in both Malinke and French, so it was a little less useful in terms of practicing my French comprehension, but it was good because I got introduced to a bunch of people that are involved in the local elected government (to the extent that it exists).

On the way there I kicked a rock trying to figure out where I was going and managed to tear off the front layer of skin from my toe, and then I stubbornly went to the formation anyway and didn’t clean and bandage it till after noon. Hopefully it is fine, but I’m a little concerned because in training they really pressed on us the enjoyable time that is staff and other infections, and it does itch a little. There is as of yet no red streaking though, so I think I am good.

Sometimes also the heat just knocks me out. I tried to use the internet but it was down (power was out) and after that I came back to my house and slept. I was going to try and go on a tour of the university here, which I have yet to see, but I just didn’t have any energy.
This week I’d like to go clothes shopping, as I find myself with a woefully small selection of wearable clothes, and plus it might be kind of fun. I’ve learned how to say “Because I am white you increased the price a lot.” in Malinke (I’ve seen it written as both Malinke and Maninke, don’t know the difference yet), which will either gagne me laughs or glares, remains to be seen.

Trying To Explain Cultural Differences

Last night I spent a while trying to describe to Cece why I joined the Peace Corps. I think its impossible. He doesn’t understand why I would possibly want to live somewhere other than the United States, and he doesn’t know what life in Guinea could possibly have that life in the US doesn’t. For a while I tried to explain that in the US we work so much that we don’t spend a lot of time with friends, and we don’t really have time for families. But that doesn’t work because here everyone works, and so there isn’t a lot of time spent with friends of families in that sense either. So then I was trying to explain that in the US when we work we go to an office and work there and we are miles away from our friends and families, while in Guinea, even when people are working they may take a break to go visit a friend, or they might have four friends hanging out in their business, or they might just bring their family with them to work. Many people here generate income not by working for someone, but by selling a good or a service, so in a way, its a country of small entrepreneurs. And small entrepreneurs have a few luxuries that employees don’t, though they also face stresses that employees don’t.

Now trying to explain it to you I find it nearly as difficult, and I’m doing it in English. How to convey the sense that life here is intimately connected with human interaction at all hours, and how that differs from life in the states which seems (to me at least) so isolating at times. Anyway, I didn’t get past that reason in terms of trying to explain to him.

He also said something that made me really sad, which I wrote about a little last night. He was talking about how we are different and I was trying to find common grounds. He said we look different and we live different, we think differently. Then he said what I thought was “I think about what I want to eat” and I said I think about that to. But I had misheard him. He said “I think about how much I want to eat.” That is an altogether different statement, and he isn’t even that poorly fed. Its not often that I think of life here as heartbreaking. Indeed I have been surprised by the general happiness of people despite the conditions (in retrospect, it seems obvious that people make do with what they have). The last time I felt like that was on the first bus ride to Forecariah, but that was before I really knew anything about how people in Guinea live, and I was just looking at the way they lived. Living with them, I realized pretty quickly that they laughed and cried and got hurt and sick the same way we do. This time its the sadness of hearing someone who is not poor talk about how hungry he is, and the thought of what that must mean for so many others. It might be that as a refuge he gets more of the scraps of food so he isn’t as well fed as the family, but from what I’ve seen it seems like he eats just like everyone else.

Just some food for thought, so to speak.

100 Years Of Solitude

I must be getting back to some normalcy because I can’t sleep again. I can only lay in bed for so long before I give up on it. Either that or the crazy dancing party and the tea drinking at night is really screwing with me.

I’m in a funny spot. I’ve gotten a little comfortable with my life and started to settle into some routines, which is good. But now I’m ready to start doing some real work, and I’m impatient to get started not only with my work here, but also with creating what my life will be like after Peace Corps. The thing is I’m not really supposed to do my real work here for the first few months, and the Etude de Mileu, while interesting and useful, can only be done so much at a time. Then theres the novel I want to write and/or finish, the French diary I want to keep, the French improving I am doing, the local language and arabic that I want to learn at least some of, and my own things like letter writing, drawing, playing harmonica, running, yoga, whatever. I can’t decide what to focus on. The French is an obvious thing because I need it and it has the most direct usefulness. Also, I don’t want to start learning much in the way of other languages until I have a fairly good grasp on the French (beyond simple stuff anyway). So I have a fair amount of free time, but I don’t want to write a lot in English because I want to focus on French, and I can’t really set up classes and stuff for another couple of months. That leaves the Etude de Mileu, but that is difficult because its a lot of conversations and its hard to actually meet up with people more than twice a day, and thats if they show up.

I think this next week all of that will begin to fall into place. Week for was sort of about the end of my trying to figure things out and get more comfortable (or shall we say the end of the beginning). I feel pretty good about my potential for getting a lot done next week. Also, I’ve stopped taking naps for a few hours every day, another indication that I’m becoming adjusted to both the unending heat (dear rains, please come a couple of months early this year), and to the multitude of crazy newness that confronts my brain.

I made beans and tortillas tonight and shared them with my family (when I say my family, I mean the family that owns my house and lives next to me). They thought they were pretty good, and the kids scarfed them down really fast. It made me feel like I should make extra food every time I cook just so that I can give it to the kids.

That’s one thing that I can’t get used to. There is a hierarchy here that means that the men get the best of the food, and then the women, and then the kids. So the kids generally eat rice with some sauce and, if they are lucky, a little bit of meat. And my family is not poor. There just isn’t really the concept of making sure the kids are fed enough food and the kinds of food that would be good for growing bodies. And I’m certainly not at the point, if I will ever be, where I can tell them that they should give the kids better food.

Anyway, I’m going to go back to bed to see if I can sleep. Maybe the tea with milk and honey will help instead of keep me up, or maybe I’ll just start 100 Years of Solitude.

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