Goodbye

So I think this is goodbye. Three months on from my return to America, my life is sprouting green shoots much like the trees of Boston are sprouting new leaves and flowers. Adapting adapting adapting. Adapting has been my life for three years, and it continues as I try to get used to what it is like living in the United States again, as the poignancy of my return begins to fade back into normalcy. There is a lot of joy here.

But it is a strange kind of normalcy, one dotted with unexpected mourning. Strange things catch me off guard and send my heart racing back to Niger and to the people there that I miss. I have been, finally, processing the loss of our sudden leaving, and it is an enduringly sad loss. Of course seeing my pictures and the video below bring up those emotions, but so does sending in a resume or getting an apartment. Sometimes in opening up to someone I discover all these emotions beneath the surface, patiently waiting for me to give them the time of day, rather like one patiently waits for the rains to start planting millet.

But if having patience is so necessary that it is a catch phrase in West Africa, it seems virtually unknown here. People in checkout lines get mad at me for bagging items instead of swiping my card. Ten seconds of their lives lost. Cars race to be somewhere and honk if I don’t cross the street quickly enough. Two seconds gone. Compare this to Niger, where a merchant will ask you to sit in his store and chat with you about whatever randomness (probably whether or not you are married) and cars are used to waiting behind a donkey cart, though they will still try to run you down if you cross the street at the wrong time.

For me, this idea of having patience, of taking life a little more slowly, really resonates. Fulfillment, the very essence of living, comes from those moments where one can just sit and be alive, and not have to be doing or saying anything. That wordless contemplation is very dear.

In America we race around, and if we want to sit we do it in a structured meditative way. There is no time for a a few minutes gazing out of the window or sitting on your porch. It is so rare that if someone catches you doing it they think you are sad or upset. For me it crystallizes in feeling, really sensing the texture of something under my fingers. When I was lost, sometimes that was sheets as I lay in bed sweating until the early morning. Sometimes it was the hot sand in the afternoon sun, or the rock that I sat on. That tactile sensation epitomizes that sense of taking a moment, and the fear that I will lose that appreciation is never far from my mind.

But as always, there are so many ways to view life. Part of my wistfulness comes from the intensity of the experience itself and the human tendency to miss and romanticize those kinds of experiences even if they were not always full of joy in the moment.

Part of it is the shock of settling into life here and knowing how it will be different. I can’t explain exactly what this is, but the difference is palpable and it’s not just because the pace of life is faster or it’s easier to communicate or it’s less hot. We care about things here that I haven’t thought of in two years: inane things like how other people dress and the way they talk, but also bigger issues like race and class and environment and gun issues and abortion rights and etc… etc… etc… The divisiveness of all this stands in stark contrast to the coherent communities of West Africa (or at least what I perceived as that).

I have made a slideshow. It’s nothing special, but the ending is pretty funny (for the record, I didn’t teach them that).

Goodbye, friends and family and other readers. Good luck in your own adventures.

-Nichola, Mamadi, Amir, Abdoul Karim, Karimu

(Names in chronological order of date recieved.)

Six Weeks Gone

Six weeks on from Niger, I’m writing this as I sit on a plane headed to New Mexico.  My hair is a mess and my head is pounding.

In Boston I discovered a city and rediscovered friends.  I feel like I’ve never done so much in such a short time.  Highlights include:

  • A six-mile run with Allie and Jake in below freezing weather that culminated in beer and pizza and led to my decision not to work in Rwanda for the present.
  • Seeing Gregory Alan Isakov live in a small bar venue with a couple of friends who I haven’t seen in years.
  • Eating a ton of pizza.
  • Snowboarding in Maine with an awesome group of people, where we stayed at a huge cozy lodge, and drank hot chocolate with peppermint schnapps.  Some of us woke that morning at 5am to hike up to the peak and see the sunrise, but my boot (which I borrowed from a friend) shattered half-way up, so we had to cut it short a bit.  The rest of the day was spent snowboarding in great conditions.  We had sushi that night in Portland at a restaurant called BenKay, which was delicious.  We didn’t get back to Boston untill 11pm.  At that point we’d been up for 18 hours on only four hours of sleep, and I had to wake up again at 5:30 to catch the flight that I’m on now.  I packed and made it to bed by 2.
  • An indoor ultimate frisbee tournament in Maine, where we slept at Eric’s family’s house and they made us delicious breakfast in the morning.  He has a great family and I got to talk to his parents about their beekeeping.
  • Seeing Bobby McFerrin live in an improv show with students from Berkelee College of Music.  It was a wonderful show with no instruments but a lot of really cool vocals.  We need more celebration of spontaneous music.
  • Meeting with Stephen and visiting a local fabrication cooperative, and then having a beer at a little bar with a Jazz/Blues open mic.
  • Having dinner with Katelyn and Chambers and then going to an engagement party for some ultimate frisbee players.
  • Poker night with the guys, drinking gin and tonics and losing to the guy who didn’t know the rules (comme normale).
  • Dinner with Eric’s coop, which was a ton of fun and let me meet a bunch of people from all over.
  • A couple of movie nights with Allie and Jakers.
  • A conference at Harvard Law on poverty and the psychology of inequality.  It was pretty interesting, but a lot of the research seemed awfully removed from what the real world is like.

All in all it’s been a really good couple of weeks back in the states.  I struggled with deciding whether to go to Rwanda, but in the end I decided that Rwanda felt like putting things off for another couple of years, and putting things off is not what I want to be doing right now.  I’ve mostly felt good about this, though there have been occasions when, being afraid of slipping into a job I don’t really want to be doing, I wish I hadn’t.  There is a whole image that I associate with the United States that involves working a boring job day after day and never enjoying the more interesting, deeper sides of life.  I don’t think I will fall into that, but at times the fear is there and it makes me want to turn around and head back to Africa.

I haven’t had too much trouble adjusting culturally.  Grocery stores are still pretty overwhelming.  Not in the sense of causing a breakdown, but just because there is so much choice.  People ask me to get a snack and I don’t even know where to start.

What does readjustment mean?  So far it hasn’t meant insensitive questions or feelings of how “good” life here is.  It hasn’t meant pining away in cold dark rooms wishing I was still under the hot sun.  But it has meant feeling a disconnect between who I am here and who I was there, and struggling with a way to reconcile that, and the fear that I will lose what I worked so hard to learn while there.  It has meant feeling not really at home in the states, and knowing that I don’t feel at home in Niger.  It has meant knowing well what I want but not knowing how to create it.  Readjustment is just a word, but the process is so ambiguous that at times I can’t even tell what I am feeling.

I plan on making one more post to put up a slideshow, and then that will be the end of this blog.  Thanks to all of you who have followed for the past couple of years, the comments you have left (especially you random guests).  Thanks for partaking in this sharing of my experience.

 

La Vie en Portugal

The awesome thing about Portugal is that, well, so much cool stuff happens.  When I leave on Friday I will have been here for ten days.  In that time, I have (in semi-order of awesome):

  • Attended a Q&A in which Gary Kasparov (yes, THE Gary Kasparov) spoke about strategy and chess and business.  I wanted to buy his book but they only had Portugese versions.  This, for obvious chess reasons, was clearly the most awesome thing.
  • Interviewed with Partners in Health for a possible job in Rwanda, which just happens to be the country that my former country director is now in.
  • Seen an FC Porto game that started off with a great goal from a header.  I went there with Sam and Liz and some of their friend’s from the Magellan MBA program here in Porto.  One of them had a bunch of free tickets, so we settled down in the absurdly cold weather to watch a little futbol, and I bought a scarf proclaiming my allegiance.
  • Been on two wine tours with Liz, in which I learned more about port wine and wine in general than I’ve ever known.  They were only about a half hour each, and at the end we got to task a couple of different flavors of port.  It was all around a good time.  And Liz and I got a chance to have a little heart to heart about life.
  • Walked around a lot with Sam and talked about all kinds of things ranging from what readjustment is like to whether the pastries here are filled with egg yolk (they are).  We drank some amazing hot chocolate and ate cream pastries.  We looked down on the riverside from the metro bridge and I discovered I have a newfound fear of heights, which makes sense because I haven’t been higher than fifteen feet off the ground for over two years (if you don’t count plane flights), and a love of all things mediterranean, especially red tile roofs, stone streets, and cheap but good wine.  We ate franchisinhas.  (Which translate to “little French girls” and are composed of two pieces of toast in between which have been sandwiched cheese and four different kinds of meat, the whole of which is then smothered in beer sauce and covered with an egg.)
  • Bought a wool coat, a scarf, a turtleneck, socks, and gloves.  In two weeks I have gone from semi-urban Niger style to full on urban Europe style.  Identity crisis may or may not be looming.

And that is that.  I have to give a great thanks to my hosts, who have provided a fantastic in-between place for me to spend a little time in my in-between state.  Really, I don’t think I could have asked for a better place to slowly detox from my second evacuation and get ready to return to America.

Here are my notes on Kasparov’s talk, if you are interested.  Mind you, it’s not a quote, more of a paraphrase:

  • We should remember that it is not enough to learn from our mistakes.  Learning from our mistakes is easy.  More difficult but also important is to learn from our victories, because in every victory there will be things that you could have done better.
  • Strategy is what you do when you have nothing to do, tactics is what you do when you have to do something.
  • We have entered an economic phase in which we don’t innovate.  We only copy things that we have already innovated and make them smaller.  This generates much less new wealth.  We do this because we want the profits without having to take the risk.  As a result living standards are being maintained by using credit.  There is little investment in the future, little investment in a future capacity to produce (as in infrastructure and education).  As a result, we are seeing the death throes of this type of economic organization.  Capitalism will survive, but there will be a new venture, a global venture, that risks once again, and though often failing, also makes huge strides because of its willingness to risk.
  • You can no longer meaningfully differentiate between different nationalities because the availability of information is leveling the playing field across geographies.
  • 100 years ago chess was a jewish game, and that exemplifies a peoples’ desire to succeed in a facet that they have available.  Marginalized populations tend not to be able to become successful leaders of society, so they become extremely good at other things?
  • The role of emotions in chess/strategy: emotions are not helpful in a game, but emotions are important to help us stay sharp.  It’s not about being unemotional, but rather splitting your emotions off from your personal decision-making system.  This is why it is important to know your own strengths and weaknesses, because it allows you to strategize so  that your character is operating from a position of strength when you are making your decisions.  For example, if you are introverted, you should strive to face decisions when you have the time alone to do so, as opposed to when you are surrounded by people.
  • Why is Kacparov a household name?  Because the matches played between Kasparov and Karpov were political and they made front page of the newspapers, they took on the dynamics and hopes of society, so it became about more than just a chess match.  Beating Karpov was a signal to Russian society that something could change, that communism could be defeated, that there was potential for hope.

Pretty interesting no?

Morocco – Essouira and Marrakech

Au revoir a Morocco.  Morocco was filled with colors and spices, fruits and meats, accusations of racism and nights of gin.  It’s a beautiful country.  After a week in our transition conference I was officially COSed, no longer a Peace Corps volunteer.  I spent another several days in Rabat with volunteers that were transferring or other stragglers merely enjoying Morocco.  In Rabat I bought some new shoes and a pair of jeans, sat and watched the ocean, wandered the small aisles of the medina, and said goodbye more times than I care to count.  If my evacuation from Guinea was about enduring until I could be resettled, my evacuation from Niger was about learning to be okay with being adrift.

For several days saying goodbye to my Peace Corps family was excruciating.  But in the end wise words from good friends left me feeling like the community that I’m always searching for already exists, it just isn’t all in one place.  And that’s okay.

Now I’m sitting in the airport in Marrakech and I’m feeling truly wealthy in friends and family.  The sense of loneliness and isolation, which became truly debilitating throughout my service, is receding in the warmth of those friends and that family.  I still don’t know what I am doing, but it does not matter so much to me now.  It will work itself out.

After saying goodbye to the last of the volunteers in Rabat, I headed down to Essouira (pronounced like sour with a hard r), which is like a small resort town.  The train from Rabat to Marrakech costs 120 Dirhams, which is about $15.  From Marrakech I took a bus to Essouira for about $9.  The bus station is attached to the train station so it was very easy to go from one to the other.  Morocco has great transportation.  In Essouira I paid a taxi to take me in a circle, and then got lost in the Medina.  I stayed at a hostel called Riad El Pacha, which I highly recommend.  A dorm style room costs about $10 a night and they give you breakfast (fresh  squeezed orange juice).  To get there you can either pay a guy to take you (they will try for 100 Dirhams, but I paid mine 6), or you can find it by walking into the medina, turning right in front of the wall, going through two sets of arches, and then turning left when you see the sign.  If that sounds confusing it’s because it is confusing as heck.  There is a reason there are guides who make money taking tourists to hotels.  Oh yeah, they also get commission, so they will try to bring you to a different hotel.

Anyway, in Essouira I met a couple of other volunteers (hi Will and Emily!) and we spent a lot of time doing almost nothing.  I drank a lot of tea and ate some great sandwiches.

Marrakech is a giant festival of tourism, but it was still a lot of fun.  There is fresh orange juice for $0.40, snails for $1, and all kinds of food at night.  It’s a little ridiculous.  The market is also huge, full of vendors selling all kinds of things (much of it exactly the same as the shop next door).  I was only there for a night, but I don’t think I’d want to stay more than a couple of days.

And now I’m headed to Portugal.

Farewell to Arms

Goodbye Africa.  Here’s to the sweat-soaked hankerchiefs and straw hats, the unending heat, the ubiquitous dirt.  Here’s to mud brick houses and tea over coals.  Here’s to hours spent sitting and saying almost nothing.  Here’s to simplicity.  Here’s to laughter and abandon.

With you I learned to cut a chicken’s throat and cook it.  With you I lay under the divinest of rains.  Enclosed by your heat and wrapped in my isolation, I spilled a lifetime of tears on your soil.  You taught me patience, though I was an unwilling pupil.  You stripped me bare, though I always sought thick skin.  With you I found poetry in life.

I went to find poverty and pain, and you showed me community and laughter.  I went to pay hommage, and you showed me my narcissism.  I went to learn, and you showed me how to love.

Oh how I hated you, when everywhere I walked the color of my skin made me different, when the heat bade insanity to creep slowly up my spine, when I felt my wasted life ticking by in innumerable seconds.

And oh how I loved you, when you let me harvest rice, when children actually came to class, when at last you told me I understood.

I’m sorry for my sudden partings.  So much of my work was undone so quickly in those moments.  How do you still welcome us when we only ever leave you to your fate or make a bad mess worse with our meddling?

You broke me, my dear Africa.  You broke the careful consructions and left me only with a handful of heat-softened pieces.

Now I have to rebuild, and I find the dust of your desert ground into me, inseparable.  My wounds bleed and my triumphs are lined red with your soil.  I carry away from you new weaknesses and new strengths.

So this is goodbye, dear Africa, but this is not goodbye forever.

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